Adam writes:
I have another follow-up question about my Buick LeSabre, this time regarding its heated seat. A few months ago, I noticed that the heated seat would turn “on,” and you could hear the relay click under the seat. However, the seat would not get warm. I realized that I would not be able to switch from “HI” to “LOW” and then “OFF,” as it has worked in the past. Eventually, with enough presses of the heated seat button, I could get it to cycle through “HI, LOW, OFF,” and hear the relay click with each press of the button, but it would take roughly a dozen presses to cycle through. I took the seat apart and discovered a broken wire in the heating element. (See the photo above.)
At some point, a small fire started under my rear end! Thank goodness for flame-retardant seat foam.
I’ve soldered copper wires before but have never attempted to solder a single tiny aluminum heating-element wire. Do you have any tips on a particular kind of solder to use? I’ve been reading online, and lots of people suggest adding a length of wire, but after seeing what this could do, I don’t want to burn the car down.
GM was aware of this being an issue, and in the past, they sold a “heating element repair kit.” I think I can still get one here. The real questions are:
Sajeev answers:
First off, it’s good to see you keeping the faith with this LeSabre, as we mentioned how delightfully underrated these vehicles are in our modern times. Heated seats are just another element of their appeal relative to a newer, theoretically better vehicle. So my advice is simple, because I’m concerned that a repair is more trouble than its worth.
Judging by the extensive burning of that wire in the heater grid, the solution might not be as simple as other fixes you see online. Sure, replacement wire is readily available, and you could splice in good stuff and do a continuity test to ensure you’ve repaired the circuit. But this is a Buick LeSabre, and you kept it around for one very good reason: Replacement parts are plentiful.
I would absolutely get a replacement from GM (or your local junkyard) and throw that one in the trash. I am leaning towards the junkyard, because odds are that failed heating element (not necessarily the entire kit you posted above) is used for more than just GM W-bodies. More premium GM vehicles (G, K, GMT trucks, etc.) also had heating elements in their seats, so visit with a GM parts department to see what vehicles used the part number you mentioned (#25730800). Just visit during a low-traffic time of day (like a Tuesday morning) and ask nicely, of course.
That knowledge makes you the King of the Junkyards, so this is a good time to remind everyone it’s a good idea to register with Row52, LKQ, U Pull and Pay, or whatever junkyard is local to you. Look at their inventory online and set up automated email alerts for new arrivals (in this case, GM W-bodies from the 2000s) and keep a list of parts handy for when that alert hits your inbox.
Equipped with your knowledge of interchangeable parts, start pulling leather off of GM seats in the junkyard to see if you can find a replacement heating element—and for much less than the #25730800 kit. Bring a multimeter, as you must test the element for continuity before buying. If it fails but the wiring isn’t as crispy as yours, maybe that one is worth repairing? Your call.
Then again, time is money. Perhaps you should just buy the new part online and slap it in there. Either way, I am not sure I’d trust that damaged heating element any more. You have too many better options from GM, or from junkyards.
Good luck with your reinstatement of the heated seating elements in your LeSabre’s throne!
Have a question you’d like answered on Piston Slap? Send your queries to pistonslap@hagerty.com—give us as much detail as possible so we can help! Keep in mind this is a weekly column, so if you need an expedited answer, please tell me in your email.
The new/junkyard option and the repair kit should probably be Plan A/B, but if things drive you down the repair road, I would recommend a crimp repair and not recommend solder for some somewhat obvious reasons
Facebook Conversations