How to Remove a Wheel Clamp
How to Remove a Wheel Clamp
Drivers are facing intimidation and extortionate fines. Clampers are charging drivers up to $1,000 (£670) to recover their cars as they capitalize on legal loopholes to make as much cash as possible before new regulations come into force.


A National motoring organisation spokesman says it fears that in the meantime, clampers will stretch existing laws to their limits and use staff recruited from prisons to provide the muscle to persuade reluctant motorists to pay up.

Wheel clamping on private property has provoked thousands of complaints regarding intimidation and extortionate fines, but local authorities and police have virtually no powers to tackle them.

Held to Ransom!

We have received many disturbing letters outlining stories of wheel-clampers who had threatened to hold people's possessions to ransom until a payment is produced. Recently a female driver's three-year-old daughter was held hostage until she came back with cash to pay her fine.

Another young woman was asked for sex unless she came up with her fine payment immediately.

Clampers even demanded a woman motorist's gold tooth as payment. And a hearse was clamped outside a church with the coffin still in the back.

In the UK The RAC Foundation said that East Berkshire Community Health NHS Trust recently fired a company which had, in the past, attempted to recruit inmates at Brixton Prison in south London to work as clampers. It had started immobilizing cars belonging to patients and staff at a Slough clinic.

Beat The Rotten, Inhuman Wheel Clampers!

New Legislation is now in place that has finally OUTLAWED the sickening practice of wheel clamping – however, we have left the information below in our guides for simple amusement if you do ever need to remove a clamp – there are some anecdotes by the then resident Alf that are intended purely as a bit of fun reading … do not under any circumstances repeat Alf’s actions!

 How to Remove Wheel Clamps!

This section is hosted by our resident Master Clamp Cracker 'Alfred'.

Alf is an expert on removing clamps and has appeared on numerous radio and television shows as well as been featured in the press demonstrating how, with a little knowledge, clamps can be removed... easily!

If anyone has successfully removed a clamp tell us how you did it Removing a Wheel Clamp

Even better, if you have photo's of the deed we'll put them up - just make sure your registration plate isn't in the photo!

"Illegal wheel clampers are a worldwide menace!!!"

Before I go on I wish to make it clear that I understand that there are occasionally legitimate reasons for using clamps. Shop owners who regularly lose customers because ignorant morons take up their parking spaces, or birdbrains parking on pedestrian crossings near a school are examples. There are always exceptions to the rule, BUT...

The overwhelming majority of clampers are motivated by either a 'jobsworth, letter of the law, mentality, or more worryingly MONEY!!!

LOCAL AUTHORITIES ALL OVER EUROPE ARE NOW RESPONSIBLE FOR THE CLAMPING...

Unbelievably, they employ private organisations in a multi million pound scam. Motorists are extorted under a barrage of underhand tricks designed to dish out fines to meet performance targets.

It's a disgrace - how can a fair system be implemented when traffic officers 'have to' fine a given number of people to generate the income to run the scheme?

There's big bucks to be made in clamping and this section is hosted to help the oppressed driver who finds them self in the awful position of being held hostage and being prevented from going about their daily business until a sickening fine is handed over.

Most countries and states have laws that prevent thugs 'demanding money with menace' or causing 'undue distress', clampers appear to be exempt from prosecution for High Street robbery.

I am now fairly adept at removing clamps and now average just a few minutes for the most impregnable. I started learning how to get clamps off after I parked in a spot I'd been using for years. I returned to find that a private clamper had covered my windows in permanent stickers and attached a carbuncle of an immobilizer.

Now, I have been teaching people how to get clamps off for several years, and published my methods widely.

Occasionally, I get asked "it's all very well ripping these thing off in the warm, cozy confines of the workshop but what about the real world, the cold, lonely car park in the dead of night?"

Well, to answer the cynics - my methods work!!!

I have personally removed 5 clamps, had 8 tickets ripped up and made a clamper remove an immobilizer!!!

With a bit if knowledge and determination, they will come off...

The first one I removed was a baptism of fire, it was an absolute beast.

Here's how I did it:

Example 1.

This is similar to the clamp I removed except the lock was an integral part of the main plate and the chain was held by a locking pin and not a padlock. I decided there and then, to try to get it off as the fine was US$90 (£60) and I knew that trying to plead with the clampers was a waste of time. I walked across town and bought a hacksaw for @ $15 (£10).I was parked in a place where no warning signs existed.

The problem with clamps is that they are usually made from hardened steel. This particular clamp consisted of a plate and a chain which wrapped around the axle.

Try as I might the saw made no impression and simply polished the steel imprisoning my car - I spent several minutes attacking the device in various areas but it was a seriously tough bit of kit... then...

I found a weakness!

There is a soft area on these clamps and on several other types. It is the bolt in the locking mechanism, the locking pin which holds the chain.

This is the only component made from mild steel and which can be cut. It's a good area because it releases the chain instantly.

The picture above is secured by a padlock. In most of the heavy duty clamps, the lock it the weak point. This is the clamp I removed for Channel Five's fifth Gear. The easiest way to remove this is by attacking the padlock with bolt croppers or a lump hammer and chisel.

Cut through the securing pin or knock the body of the padlock away from the locking pin, generally in a downward direction.

Example 2

I have touched on the next clamp in Example 1.

I  have successfully removed two of these types. They are made up of 3 bars which hook over the tyre held in place by a front plate designed to restrict access to the wheel nuts.

The idea is to let as much air from the tyre as you can drive away with. Then add the secret ingredient ... brute force!

If you pull hard enough it is possible to bend the vertical arm back away from the wheel leaving you free to drive out of the contraption.

That's the 3 clamps - now how I got the ticket ripped up and the clamp removed.

Before I go on a word of warning ... I am 6" tall, weigh 16 stone (mostly muscle!) and have trained in martial arts for several years. I can look after myself.

Many clampers are serious bullies and rely on their intimidation to frighten people into paying.

My wife and her mother were out shopping four years ago when they returned to find the dreaded yellow tumour on the wheel. My wife was 7 months pregnant at the time and my mother-in-law is the meekest, most polite person you'd ever have the pleasure of meeting.

As they arrived so did the clampers. They refused point blank to remove the thing until my wife handed over a cheque. Now she could have cancelled it but unfortunately I have a real thing about scumbags who extort money from defenseless women!

I called their mobile throughout the night with language I'd rather not publish, and because they were on a mobile with only a PO Box number they refused all requests for a meeting to debate their tactics!

Mistake number 1 for the clampers is that if you call the Post Office they are obliged, by law, to let you have the registered address on the PO Box holder, and you can't get a box without a legitimate address.

So I went round and as luck would have it the van was just leaving as I arrived.

I held back and followed it for a hour.

In my younger days I'd have pulled the van over and had words with the driver but past experience has proven that these types rarely want to enter into a sensible conversation, so one usually ends up kicking the living daylights out of them!

Not always the best route these days!

I tracked their movements that day and later called them. I recited their home address and recalled their route that day. I also told them what would happen if they didn't placate me.

Later that evening there was a knock on my mother-in-law's door - it was a police officer (she was the registered keeper)...

Get this!!! - He said that he had received a call from the clampers...here we go...they were terrified!

They had asked the officer to call me off, that they would not process the cheque or press charges and was there any thing I wanted!!!

I promise this is no word of a lie - I was amazed and have smugly dined out on the story ever since.

THIS APPROACH IS NOT FOR THE FEINT HEARTED AND  IT COULD HAVE VERY EASILY GONE TITS UP!

The same can be said for the next example!

How to Get a Clamper to Remove it!

On another occasion I returned to find the car clamped with the chain type immobiliser. I had used the same spot for years and had never seen a warning sign (because there wasn't one). It was late in the evening so there were no hardware shops open from where to buy a hacksaw.

I decided to take the Car Jack out of the boot and look for a way to use it to break open the lock by forcing it apart.

I was all dressed up for a night out and getting dirty set my blood boiling. I had been at it for around 15 minutes when the clamper arrived.

WHOOSH!

I exploded - before he'd got out of the car I was on him, Car Jack raised "Get that f.....g thing off now" I asked politely!

He was sufficiently taken aback and suggested I not beat the crap out of him as he was only doing his job. He would call his office to get the guys down with the keys...no he wouldn't!

NEVER LET A CLAMPER GET ON THE PHONE - HE'S ONLY CALLING FOR BACK-UP AND WILL STALL FOR ALL HE'S WORTH TO STALL YOU TILL IT GETS THERE.

An important thing to note is that the guy who turns up to remove the clamp in usually the one who's put it on.

After several attempts to use the phone my clamper gave up and tried to drive away. I mentioned quietly in his ear that if he did, he'd be driving without headlights and a windshield.

I will give him credit for his tenacity though as he tried every trick in the book not to unclamp me. The only problem was that I was more determined to have it removed!

Eventually I suggested he put this one down to experience, which he agreed to and said that he could remove it if he had clamped a disabled person by mistake.

He was not allowed to clamp disabled people...which opens up a new loophole!

If you can produce a disabled card, which has 'fallen into the footwell' they must remove the clamp.

My suggestion would be to get a sample made up just to be used in the case of a clamping where you feel uncomfortable about physically confronting the clampers.

ONE MORE WARNING - A FRIEND OF MINE RECENTLY TOLD ME ABOUT THE TIME HE PULLED THE BASEBALL BAT OUT ON A CLAMPER AS A 'NEGOTIATING TOOL' ONLY TO SEE SEVERAL MORE CLAMPERS PILE OUT OF A NEARBY VAN WITH BIGGER BATS!

BE CAREFUL.

The publishing of these true stories is to show that we can fight back - you don't have to resort to violence, but getting the clamp off will give you back your freedom...for free!

If you are clamped by a legitimate authority and remove it, you open yourself up to prosecution.

DON'T LIE DOWN AND TAKE THE CRAP - DRIVERS ARE NOT A SOFT TARGET!

'It is high time that the bully-boy stand-and-deliver tactics should be outlawed' 
Edmund King, RAC (One of UK's leading motoring organisations)

Step by Step guide to Removing Wheel Clamps!

This section goes into more detail about removing specific clamps and is published for your information only when you lose the key!

One thing to point out here is that once removed most people take the clamp away with them. This stops the clampers prosecuting you for criminal damage, as far as they're concerned it wasn't there when they returned!

And means the expensive clamp has to be replaced.

It could be argued that they really didn't want it any way as they'd left it attached to an object that was obviously going to move away!

We recommend a simple cheap toolkit be carried in the back of your car for emergencies!Some or all of the following should always be readily available:

  • Bolt croppers for cutting chain and padlocks.
  • Heavy duty hacksaw with hardened steel blade.
  • Lump hammer and chisel for attacking weak areas.
  • Battery driver with titanium bits available from locksmiths
  • The slide hammer.
    This is a new technique recently reveled by a reformed car criminal and is what they use to remove the barrels from locks when stealing cars. Here we put the technique to good use in removing clamps The screw adapter of the hammer is wound deeply into the barrel of the lock. The weight is then slid back hard to pop out the entire lock barrel from its housing.
  • A screwdriver can then be inserted into the hole and the lock mechanism turned to undo the device
  • Ideally, a petrol driven disc cutter!!!
    If you use one of these ensure you get training from the seller or hirer. Use gentle pressure on the weak area DO NOT try to force the blade through the steel and wear goggles

Vulnerability rating:

1. Easy - My granny could pull it off!
2. Fair to middling! Should pull off with a modicum of force and determination
3. Medium - Has weak areas and can often be Bent off
4. Difficult to Remove - Has a few weak points
5. Very Difficult to Remove - Generally Hardened Steel all over - usually the only weakness it the lock


Tri Bar Type Wheel Clamp

Tri Bar Type Wheel Clamp


Vulnerability rating: 3

To remove this example, let air from the tyre (but not too much as to not be able to drive away) and pull the top bar away from the wheel. The clamp should then peal away with some rocking back and forth and from side to side.

This type gets more difficult to remove as the wheel it's attached to gets smaller because the arms shorten. For example they will be quite extended on a 4x4 and the arms will have a greater degree of play and leverage. They will bend easily. However, on a mini the arms will be greatly shortened and have less leverage. In cases where the person removing the clamp hasn't the strength to rip it off the lock can be drilled or an angle grinder will rip through the arms. It's cheaper to pop to the local hire shop for a petrol driven cutter than pay the extortionate fine - we're told!

A cutter will go through it in seconds.

Chain Type Wheel Immobilizer

Chain Type Wheel Immobilizer


Vulnerability rating: 2 - 5

This clamp has a varied vulnerability rating as it depends on what lock is used. I removed this type recently for a TV show. The padlock is the weakest point here. This is the only component made from mild steel and which can be cut. It's a good area because it releases the chain instantly.The picture left is secured by a padlock. In most of the heavy duty clamps, the lock it the weak point. This is the clamp I removed for Channel Five's fifth Gear.

The easiest way to remove this is by attacking the padlock with bolt croppers or a lump hammer and chisel. You will need a lump hammer and a cold chisel. Strike the top of thebody of the padlock hard in a downward direction until the body parts from the 'U' shaped locking pin. Or cut through the securing pin with bolt croppers or grinder. A variation of this clamp is where the lock is integral to the clamp, the sliding locking bolt which secures the chain is now the only weak point.

Police and Local Authority Wheel Clamp

Police and Local Authority Wheel Clamp


Vulnerability rating: 5


  • Features: As used by Police Forces and Parking Enforcement Agencies.
  • Heavy duty clamp - ideal for theft prevention and parking enforcement.

OK same technique of letting air out and bending back. It is worth noting that not all clamps are made from hardened steel and the bars can sometimes be cut through.

To remove this example, let air from the tyre (but not too much as to not be able to drive away) and pull the top bar away from the wheel. The clamp should then peal away with some rocking back and forth and from side to side.

Or drill out the lock.

Single Arm, Hub Type Clamp

Single Arm, Hub Type Clamp


Vulnerability rating: 5+

  • Home Office Approved, in use by DVLA, Councils and major car park operators.
  • Superior performance to meet the demanding needs of the professional operator.
  • Quick, silent and easy to use - 30 secs. to fit.
  • No assembly- The Pro comes in two main parts, ready to use.
  • Light and compact, the Pro takes up less than 1 cubic ft of storage.
  • Supplied complete with High Security lock.

This has to be one of the better designed and hardest to remove. The arms can be split at the joint with the lump hammer and large chisel. The lock can be drilled and it puts up little resistance to the petrol cutter! I have a mechanic friend who got clamped with one of these - he caught a bus home then returned in his pick up with the oxyacetylene cutter in the back. He said it was a hot knife through butter!

Chain Type Wheel Clamp

Chain Type Wheel Clamp


Vulnerability rating: 5


  • Features: As used by Police Forces and Parking Enforcement Agencies.
  • Heavy duty clamp - ideal for theft prevention and parking enforcement.

This clamp has a varied vulnerability rating as it depends on what lock is used. I removed this type recently for a TV show. The padlock is the weakest point here. This is the only component made from mild steel and which can be cut. It's a good area because it releases the chain instantly.The picture left is secured by a padlock. In most of the heavy duty clamps, the lock it the weak point. This is the clamp I removed for Channel Five's fifth Gear.

The easiest way to remove this is by attacking the padlock with bolt croppers or a lump hammer and chisel. You will need a lump hammer and a cold chisel. Strike the top of thebody of the padlock hard in a downward direction until the body parts from the 'U' shaped locking pin. Or cut through the securing pin with bolt croppers or grinder. A variation of this clamp is where the lock is integral to the clamp, the sliding locking bolt which secures the chain is now the only weak point.

Tri Bar Wheel Clamp

Tri Bar Wheel Clamp


Vulnerability rating: 1

My kid sister could pull this one off, which is pretty amazing wen you consider this is not a cheap device! The biggest obstacle to removing these things is yourself and the belief that they are indestructible. They are not and will come off with a modicum of force - don't lie down and take the crap any longer!

Hub Type Clamp

Hub Type Clamp


Vulnerability rating: 2


  • Features: Lightweight, compact, portable security with simple to use snap shut lock.
  • Designed for smaller camping trailers and jet-ski trailers.
  • NOTE: Requires inset wheel nuts to allow the two 60mm studs on inside of disc to sit within rim
  • High security, integrated drill and pick resistant lock (No such thing!)

It'll simply pull off!

Tri Bar Clamp

Tri Bar Clamp Kestral clamps


Vulnerability rating 2


  • Features: Independently tested, lightweight wheel clamp
  • Testing: TUV approved.
  • Adjustable, case hardened hook arm.
  • High security, integrated drill and pick resistant lock.

Just pull it off or attack the lock!

Tri Arm Type

Tri Arm Type


Vulnerability rating: 2


  • Features: Simple to use - fits in seconds without using the key.
  • Construction: Lightweight and robust with case hardened lower arms.
  • Testing: 9/10 in UK Touring Online attack test.
  • Compact - easily stores in caravan front locker
  • Ideal for touring or storage.
  • High security, integrated drill and pick resistant lock

Pull it off by pealing back the weak arms, drill out the lock, these can also be levered off with an iron bar! This is great: "Simple to use - fits in seconds without using the key." Just as quick to remove!

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