Exterior & Bodywork
Rust/Corrosion: Inspect wheel wells, undercarriage, door sills, and paint bubbles. Use a magnet to detect hidden filler in steel panels.
Accident Damage: Check for mismatched paint, uneven panel gaps, or shiny marks on pinch welds (signs of poor repairs).
Tires: Look for uneven tread wear (alignment issues), cracks, or mismatched brands/sizes.
Interior
Upholstery: Check for tears, stains, or odors (mold, smoke).
Electronics: Test all lights, wipers, windows, climate control, and gauges.
Spare Tire & Tools: Ensure the jack, tools, and spare are present and functional.
Engine & Mechanicals
Fluids: Check oil (milky/discolored = coolant leak), coolant (sludge = neglect), brake fluid (low levels = leaks), and transmission fluid (burnt smell = wear).
Leaks: Inspect under the car for oil, coolant, or brake fluid puddles.
Belts/Hoses: Look for cracks or fraying.
Test Drive
Steering/Alignment: Listen for knocks or wandering; check for vibrations.
Brakes: Test for pulling, fading, or squeaking.
Transmission: Note rough shifts (automatic) or clutch slippage (manual).
Underbody & Suspension
Rust: Inspect frame rails, exhaust, and suspension mounts.
Play in Components: Jack up the car (if safe) and check for loose wheel bearings, tie rods, or suspension.
Documentation
VIN Check: Verify the VIN matches the title and registration. Look for hidden VINs if pre-1981.
Service History: Request records for timing belt changes, oil services, and major repairs.
Red Flags
Deal Breakers: Extensive rust, mismatched VINs, milky oil (head gasket failure), or severe fluid leaks.
Hidden Issues: Fresh undercoating (may mask rust), non-working accessories, or reluctance to allow inspections.
Pro Tip:
Bring a flashlight, magnet, and a friend for a second opinion. For classics, hire a specialist mechanic to assess originality and structural integrity.
Bottom Line:
Prioritize safety-critical items (brakes, steering) and documentation. Walk away if the seller avoids questions or refuses a pre-purchase inspection.