Paying a professional to deal with your car's issues is tempting, and sometimes completely necessary. But we'd argue there are several good reasons why you should start getting used to performing basic services by yourself.
The first, most obvious reason — money. Mechanics provide essential services, but at the end of the day, they're in business for your cash. Doing the small stuff yourself will certainly save you from high labor costs. Then, there's time. The universe works in mysterious ways, and cars always seem to break down at the worst possible moment. So if you can't wait a few days to get your car in the shop (and maybe another full day for it to be serviced), getting it done yourself can be a lifesaver.
Third, servicing your car yourself will give you confidence and safety. Not only will you be able to recognize smaller issues that could turn into more dangerous failures, but you'll also have the expertise to handle problems on the go. If this sounds enticing, take a gander at these 12 simple maintenance skills that will surely acclimate you to DIY car ownership.
Doing your own oil changes may sound daunting for a first-timer. Rest assured, though; this process is pretty simple on most cars, and it can save anywhere from $25-$75 a pop. As with any automotive service, preparation is half the battle, and doing it right will make the process as smooth as possible. To start, you'll need the following items: oil, an oil filter, an oil drain pan, a basic wrench set, a basic ratchet and socket set, an oil filter wrench, gloves, a light, a jack, and jack stands.
Make sure to refer to your owner's manual for the correct type of oil and amount that your engine holds. Once you've crossed those Ts, you'll want to safely raise up your car on jack stands (more on that later), remove the plastic undertray (if your car has one), and unscrew the oil pan drain plug to let the existing oil flow out into your oil drain pan.
Next, use that trusty oil filter wrench to remove the old oil filter, letting it drain into the pan. After that, it's simple. Screw on the new oil filter and the oil pan drain plug, and — using an oil funnel — begin pouring to the correct level, making sure to check the dipstick several times to ensure accuracy. Once you've cleared all your tools and fastened your oil fill cap, check for any leaks, and congratulations — you've done your first oil change.
All of the maintenance skills you'll read about here could be considered safety-related. Lights are pretty darn important, as accident rates during the night, which is when you rely on your lights the most, are much higher than during the day. Once again, however, we need to have our ducks in a row before doing the service. This includes avoiding poor-quality bulbs when shopping for replacements. Cars with high-quality lighting, and therefore better nighttime visibility, have crash rates as much as 29% lower than those that don't, according to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety.
To start, make sure the car is off with the keys removed from the ignition. We're dealing with electricity here, so we don't want any risks; you could even disconnect the battery for extra safety. Next, open up your hood and locate the dead bulb, unplugging the wires or connector attached to the back side of the bulb housing. The next steps will differ depending on your make and model, but in most cases, the housing can be removed by hand or by taking out a couple of screws.
Removing the bulb itself usually involves unhooking a latch or spring-secured wire that holds the bulb in place. Once you've navigated the old bulb and removed it, simply retrace your steps in reverse order, installing the new light (with gloves) and securing the housing. Finally, flip on your lights from the inside and confirm that it worked.
Replacing your spark plugs might be one of the easiest ways to maintain the performance of your engine. You really only need two tools: a socket made specifically for spark plugs and a socket wrench to go along with it. But it's also crucial that you buy the correct size for your plugs. Some common sizes are 5/8 and 9/16, though you should always check your owner's manual to make sure you get it right.
The first step is always the same. Unplug the spark plug wires from each cylinder and disconnect the negative battery terminal if required by your owner's manual. Once all the wires are disconnected, you'll want to make sure that your wrench-and-socket combo can reach the spark plugs with enough room to unscrew them. The next steps are a piece of cake. Carefully unscrew each plug and don't use more force than required, as a broken-off spark plug will turn your 15-minute job into an all-day affair.
Then, with a light but firm hand, screw in the new plugs with your special socket. Once you're all done, plug the wires back onto the spark plugs and reconnect the battery if necessary. Spark plugs can cost anywhere from $5 to $20 a piece (and far more in special cases), but getting them professionally installed can cost more than $250 in labor alone. This skill might sound small, but it can save hundreds.
Trust us; that touchless drive-thru carwash can destroy your paint. This topic isn't mentioned much when discussing car maintenance, but washing your car yourself is a great habit to get into. Aside from the clear aesthetic benefits of experiencing a spotless, fresh-smelling interior and sparkling body panels, regularly washing your car with a good kit will protect it from built-up grime that damages your paint.
We won't get into interior detailing for today, but as for the exterior, these are the things you'll want to have: a 5-gallon bucket, a high-quality washing mitt, a large drying cloth, access to a hose (or a self-serve carwash), your choice of high-quality automotive soap, and a separate mitt or sponge for your wheels.
Start by giving your car a good rinse with the hose. Next, fill the bucket up with water and mix it with your soap; the soap bottle usually gives a recommended amount to add in. Submerge your washing mitt in the mixture and use a lengthwise motion on every inch of the exterior. Rinse off the areas of your car as you go to keep from letting any dirt back in place as it dries. Once the body panels and glass are done, use a separate washing mitt or sponge and apply the soap mixture to your wheels, rinsing when done. Finally, use that drying towel generously, leaving no streaks behind.
You've heard it a million times by now, but we'll reiterate — tires are the only part of your car that should be touching the road. And if safety is your top concern, they should be well-maintained. According to the NHTSA, there are nearly 11,000 tire-related crashes per year, and in 2023, 646 people were killed as a result of such incidents. To avoid this, here are a few things you can do at home.
First, make sure your tires are within the recommended age limit. At six to 10 years of age, you may want to replace your tires regardless of their wear. You can find the age by looking at the Tire Identification Number on the sidewall. The last four digits represent the week and year they were produced.
If your tires are still within age, they should have more than 2/32 of an inch of tread depth left. To check this, you can use a penny with Lincoln's head facing down in between treads. If you can see the top of his head, it's time for new tires. Don't forget tire pressures, though. Check your manual to see the recommended PSI, remove the wheel stem cap, and use a pressure gauge to read what the PSI actually is. If it's too low, use an air pump or compressor with a Schrader valve attachment and fill up the tire, intermittently checking the PSI with your gauge until you have the correct pressure.
Remember how easy spark plug replacements were? Well, wiper blades make that look like rocket science. But remember, its simplicity doesn't take away from its importance. We aren't academic scholars, but we'll bet that being able to see in rain or snow greatly decreases your chances of crashing — novel idea, huh?
Spotting a bad wiper is also pretty simple. If it's dried out and cracking, leaving behind streaks of water where there shouldn't be, or having a hard time creating a seal between the blade and the glass, it's begging you to replace it. Most importantly, you'll want to make sure you buy the correct set, always replacing both wipers at a time. Auto parts stores will refer you to the correct size, but you can always check your owner's manual if you're not sure.
The replacement process can be different for newer cars with more complicated wipers. In general, though, the blades are connected via a press tab that slides off without the need for tools. First, lift the wipers off the windshield, folding them to the upright position. Then, press the tab and slide the wiper off the connection point. With the new wiper, slide it into position until it clicks into place. Once both sides are done, spray some wiper fluid and check to ensure they move and seal as intended.
The first step in a battery replacement is making sure you need a new battery. It may sound obvious, but people often spend between $90 and $200 on a new battery that doesn't fix a deeper electrical problem. Once that's out of the way, you can move forward with a replacement.
First, make sure your engine is off and has been sitting for at least 10 minutes to ensure your car's electronic control unit has completely shut down. Next, you should always disconnect the negative battery terminal first. You can identify it by referring to the negative symbol next to it, or by looking for a black wire instead of the positive's red wire. This might require loosening a nut enough to slide it off. Once you've done that, place the wire aside where it cannot touch any metal; you can wrap the wire in a towel to make sure it doesn't touch anything.
Next, do the same for the positive terminal and remove the battery's hold-down. The hold-down typically has a bracket that's secured with just a couple of nuts or screws. Once those are removed, take the battery out of its tray and set it aside. Now you can install the new battery in its place. Secure the hold-down and carefully reconnect both terminals starting with the positive side. Make sure both are tightened down, and finally, turn the key to make sure it starts.
Oil, while integral, is not the only fluid you need to worry about in your car. Traditionally, there are about five other incredibly important fluids you'll want to know how to check and fill up. Coolant cools your engine via the radiator, brake fluid manages the hydraulic mechanism behind your brakes, power steering fluid deals with your ability to steer easily, transmission fluid allows your transmission to operate and shift smoothly, and windshield washer fluid assists your wipers in clearing dirt .
Your specific car's engine bay will have its own piece of real estate for each type of fluid, so it's important that you refer to your owner's manual to identify what goes where. Nearly every space storing one of these fluids should have some kind of fill tube or reservoir level marking that designates "full" or "empty." Transmission fluid may only have a dipstick, which can be used to see how much it needs to be refilled.
Topping these fluids off is as easy as using a small funnel and carefully pouring the correct fluid to the "full" line. Don't forget to have plenty of towels at your disposal to wipe any spillage, and always make sure the engine is off while you are pouring.
When performing certain services on your own car — like changing oil, for example — you'll need to know how to safely use a jack and jack stands properly. It goes without saying that safety is incredibly important here, lest you want 4000 pounds of metal falling on top of you. Buy a quality jack, but don't skimp on a good set of stands – crappy ones can kill you.
Once you've got a solid set, you'll need to refer to your owner's manual to locate the jack points, There are usually four of them located under the rocker panels. After identifying these, use a brick or wood as a chock, placing them behind the tire opposite the corner where you are jacking the car to secure it from rolling. Of course, your car should also be in park with the e-brake engaged.
Next, you can use your jack to lift your desired corner high enough to place the stand, putting it directly next to where the jack plate contacts the jack point. After that, slowly lower the car, resting its weight on the jack stand. As a good safety measure, use the jack itself as a failsafe, placing it next to the stand with the plate just barely up against the underside of the car. This ensures your car won't fall on the ground — or on you — if the stand fails.
Most cars have two main air filters: one for the cabin and one for the engine. When these get clogged or are simply too old, they won't be able to filter out all the nasty outside particles that you and your engine want to avoid. Luckily, replacing these is fairly elementary.
Your cabin air filter may not always be in the same spot, but on many cars, it's posted up just behind your glove box. Getting to the filter's housing will usually only require simple tools like a screwdriver or socket wrench, but some may not require any at all. Once you've opened the filter housing, simply remove the old one and replace it with your new part; the filter shouldn't cost more than about $30.
Engine filters cost about the same, and the process for them can be just as simple since the housing is often not obstructed by other components. It may require unlatching some plastic clips or unscrewing a few fasteners, but once you've opened the housing, it's the same as changing the cabin filter. When you should replace these filters is somewhat up to you. For both engine and cabin filters, the 12,000-15,000 mile mark — or one year — is often cited as a good point to change them, but you can use your own discretion.
For this one, all you'll need is your own peepers (and maybe a flashlight). As you get more comfortable and knowledgeable regarding DIY maintenance, continuing to develop your eye for issues is massively helpful. Preventive maintenance is still maintenance, and when you can spot small flaws, you decrease the risk of them turning into bigger ones.
For a beginner's eye, we'll only focus on belts and hoses to start. Depending on the layout of your engine, its belts and pulley system will be located either in front of the engine (facing the bumper), or on the side of the engine (facing the fender). When the engine is off and cold, use a flashlight to check for visible fraying, cracking, or twisting on the belts, and feel them to make sure they aren't dried out. These symptoms can lead to belt failures, which could throw off your engine's timing, pumps, or electrical system. Catching them before they break will save you a trip to the mechanic.
As for hoses, the main ones you'll want to focus on are coolant hoses (connected to your radiator) and heater hoses (connected to your heater core, usually in the rear-left corner of the engine bay). Again, use your flashlight and hands to check for dried-out, cracked, or disconnected hoses, as these can cause leaks and poor performance.
Some might call this more of a "repair" than simple maintenance. To us, though, replacing a tire so you can safely get to your destination qualifies as maintaining your car's health. Not to mention, it's probably the first thing your dad yelled at you to learn when you first got a car.
Firstly, if you have a flat tire, park the car on a safe, flat surface before getting out. Next, locate your spare tire and the accompanying tools it should come with. These are usually located underneath the trunk floor or in a pocket in the trunk area. Use the lug-nut wrench to loosen – but not completely remove – the lug nuts attached to the flat wheel.
Now, grab your jack and place it underneath the jack point where your flat tire is located, as we covered previously. Then, use it to raise the car up to where you can safely remove the loose lug nuts and the wheel itself. With the car still jacked up, place the spare tire squarely on the studs and screw the lug nuts on by hand, tightening them further with the wrench. Finally, you can crank the jack back down, lowering your car onto the ground before fully tightening the lug nuts. Just like that, you're ready to pack up and get on your way.